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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pickering. Ontario. Canada.
Posts: 4,498
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These can be bought with or without power.
I have both on stock waiting for my attention they are now getting it I have run these around the L/O`s for years, and always wanted to "have a go" at remotoring. Why?? being me I am fickel and never liked the motor That came with them , and once you have serviced them they are beggers to get running good again. They do have a nice new motor out now but it`s a bit of a hassel fixing it in to the old units. You have to order and pay too much.Soooo here goes. First picture, shows the parts used. 1 flat sheet of brass $ 6.00 Can. 2 1/8th U channel $1.20 Can each. 1 SW 7 bought at a show seconds for $5.00 Can ( not the one shown that was $ 25.00). 2nd picture shows the motor to be replaced. 3rd picture show`s it done. Fast or what ![]()
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Chris. Traction Nut. Keeping the sparks flying off the overhead Building a Traction Layout. http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=15354 http://www.2guyz.info/index.php |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pickering. Ontario. Canada.
Posts: 4,498
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The five pictures show the fittings after a lot of cutting off the original base unit to alow for the new trucks then the old catchers and step even the means to refit it back into the body.
I used clear silcone to bond my motors in place.
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Chris. Traction Nut. Keeping the sparks flying off the overhead Building a Traction Layout. http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=15354 http://www.2guyz.info/index.php |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pickering. Ontario. Canada.
Posts: 4,498
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Here is the "new car" resting on the new frame.
The windows have been fitted. Btw the windows will insulate the motor from the frame. Next I have to wire the motor/lights diods ect. I dont want to bore you with those details as I am sure you are all up to speed on this and I covered it in the last project of which I` will post the link. For those tractionaly minded Have fun. ![]()
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Chris. Traction Nut. Keeping the sparks flying off the overhead Building a Traction Layout. http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=15354 http://www.2guyz.info/index.php |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pickering. Ontario. Canada.
Posts: 4,498
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http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread....4&page=1&pp=15
Hope this gets you to the last thread. Cheers.
__________________
Chris. Traction Nut. Keeping the sparks flying off the overhead Building a Traction Layout. http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=15354 http://www.2guyz.info/index.php |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 978
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Definitely inspiring! I've got just such an SW-7 sitting around the place...I'm about halfway done turning two halves of old Roundhouse combines into a freight motor body and the SW-7 motor might fit just fine inside of it...hm. I have a hatful of assorted traction body castings knocking about, maybe it's time to finally get them to earn their keep!
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pickering. Ontario. Canada.
Posts: 4,498
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Thanks guys.
Keep us posted Jetrock, I want to see your combine
__________________
Chris. Traction Nut. Keeping the sparks flying off the overhead Building a Traction Layout. http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=15354 http://www.2guyz.info/index.php |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pickering. Ontario. Canada.
Posts: 4,498
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I have test run the bowser and after sorting out a insulation problem the Lady runs a lot better.
I will remotor the second bowser differently same process , this time I will try to mount the motor in original frame cutting of one wheel assembly only , I found the sideway mount rather tight, although it still runs well. Have fun.. ![]()
__________________
Chris. Traction Nut. Keeping the sparks flying off the overhead Building a Traction Layout. http://www.the-gauge.com/showthread.php?t=15354 http://www.2guyz.info/index.php |
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