Clear Coating Tips - Page 3

blueeyedbear · 04-16-2008, 03:38 PM

For a flat spray, I recommend a "matte fixative", such as the one made by Krylon. It is made for protecting artwork and I've never known it to cause any bleeding or discoloring. I use it as a "seal coat" under gloss Krylon, as well as for a flat finish.

I like the triple thick Krylon, but it's easy to over do and get globs and runs. Be careful with it. (And the fumes are toxic! That goes for all lacquer and oil-based sprays)

If you don't want to stink up the house, get a large cardboard box. Place it so the open side is to the front and use it for a spray booth. Close it while the spray gloss dries. (Also works well with an airbrush.)

Bob

CardStalker · 04-16-2008, 08:32 PM

Bob thanks for the great input. Tazman3, first off, the search function is a bit tricky and I too have problems with it. As to edge prepping, the clear coat does soak into the paper, the first couple of coats get sucked in and it is best if you spray the parts before cutting. Cutting after coating takes a little more effort, but I have found that if you attack the cut area first without getting into the paper you can make any adjustments to any area that you got off line on the next pass. Also it acts kind of like a guide as you finish cutting through. After the part is cut, when you edge prep the part it does not bleed in as much as with plain paper. If you look at this thread that I did on my Little Joe build: Little Joe Build, I show that I clear coated all the parts before cutting and edge prepping. Also I show how to remove the clear coat after the part is cut from any tabs that got coated to allow for gluing. Also if you check out my current build: Free Model #3 Hubble Sapce Telescope Build, and go to where I do the mirror, I show a technique on how to make the clear coat smoother.

oraclehara · 07-01-2008, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CardStalker

Ok, here is a before and after shot. The one on the top is the as printed and the one on the bottom is Clear Coated. It took 4 light coats to get it to shine. You can't quite tell from the pic, but adding clear gloss makes the colors darker. Sorry for the glare but I wanted you to see the clear coat better.

Hi CardStalker,

I'm new to this papercraft hobby. I'm trying to build a car papercraft and there's one thing nice about a car is the glossy surface of its body works. I can see the effect of Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze giving a glossy finish to the paper. But i noticed that the glossy part is quite uneven. Is this caused by the paper and can I sand it using Tamiya's ultra fine sand paper?
Thanks.

CardStalker · 07-02-2008, 07:50 AM

Hello oraclehara, welcome aboard. The wavy surface is from ther clear coat. If you apply it lightly many times it will not be as wavy. Yes you can sand it, but let it dry for at least a day. You will have to reapply the clear coat, but it will be smoother.

oraclehara · 07-02-2008, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CardStalker

Hello oraclehara, welcome aboard. The wavy surface is from ther clear coat. If you apply it lightly many times it will not be as wavy. Yes you can sand it, but let it dry for at least a day. You will have to reapply the clear coat, but it will be smoother.

Thank you so much for clearing that out. I'm very new at this paper craft hobby. I'll post photos of my work when it's done.

timhinds1@cox.net · 07-02-2008, 10:52 AM

I have been clearcoating for years now. If you are loking for smooooooooth then print it on photo paper first. The shiny surface does not require a sealer coat and you will get a very nice finish. Just don't put it on too heavy. I use "Rustoleum Painter's Touch" with UV. It will give you a vinyl like texture and is flexible.

oraclehara · 07-02-2008, 08:46 PM

I went to the art shop yesterday to get the Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze and Matte Finish. But they ran out of stocks with the Matte Finish and so i got the Low Odor Clear Coatings (Matte) instead. I just found out that this Low Odor Clear Coatings is of latex enamel. Can i use this for my paper craft?

Thanks

CardStalker · 07-02-2008, 09:06 PM

I would think that it should be ok, but you might try it on some plane paper first, and then on something printed. Latex might be a bit more flexable. Let us know how you make out.

oraclehara · 07-02-2008, 10:38 PM

I was thinking if the latex enamel can't be used, i'll just go exchange for another type. Anybody have experience in this?

timhinds1@cox.net · 07-03-2008, 11:47 AM

I would try it first. latex is water based as is your printer ink. Let your test paper dry well as the ink might bleed during the drying process.

07-02-2008, 10:52 AM	#36 (permalink)
timhinds1@cox.net Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 458	I have been clearcoating for years now. If you are loking for smooooooooth then print it on photo paper first. The shiny surface does not require a sealer coat and you will get a very nice finish. Just don't put it on too heavy. I use "Rustoleum Painter's Touch" with UV. It will give you a vinyl like texture and is flexible. __________________ The older I get the more I did. When life hands you a lemon, throw it back!

07-03-2008, 11:47 AM	#40 (permalink)
timhinds1@cox.net Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 458	I would try it first. latex is water based as is your printer ink. Let your test paper dry well as the ink might bleed during the drying process. __________________ The older I get the more I did. When life hands you a lemon, throw it back!

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Pull coating off foam or not	91rioja	Technical Q & A	6	02-19-2007 11:24 AM
Sometimes, on a clear day, you can see...	doctorwayne	Photography, Books, Video, Scenery	10	04-25-2006 02:40 AM
Clear tape	shepperdspie	Drift Setup	12	10-07-2005 12:17 AM
Can someone help clear this up?	vanda32547	DCC Forum	9	12-20-2004 06:28 AM
Inkjet surface coating and heat activated adhesive discovery	Gil	Tools of the trade	9	08-23-2004 07:22 PM

04-16-2008, 03:38 PM	#31 (permalink)
blueeyedbear Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Marion County, Texas Posts: 119	For a flat spray, I recommend a "matte fixative", such as the one made by Krylon. It is made for protecting artwork and I've never known it to cause any bleeding or discoloring. I use it as a "seal coat" under gloss Krylon, as well as for a flat finish. I like the triple thick Krylon, but it's easy to over do and get globs and runs. Be careful with it. (And the fumes are toxic! That goes for all lacquer and oil-based sprays) If you don't want to stink up the house, get a large cardboard box. Place it so the open side is to the front and use it for a spray booth. Close it while the spray gloss dries. (Also works well with an airbrush.) Bob

04-16-2008, 08:32 PM	#32 (permalink)
CardStalker Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: PA, USA Posts: 475	Bob thanks for the great input. Tazman3, first off, the search function is a bit tricky and I too have problems with it. As to edge prepping, the clear coat does soak into the paper, the first couple of coats get sucked in and it is best if you spray the parts before cutting. Cutting after coating takes a little more effort, but I have found that if you attack the cut area first without getting into the paper you can make any adjustments to any area that you got off line on the next pass. Also it acts kind of like a guide as you finish cutting through. After the part is cut, when you edge prep the part it does not bleed in as much as with plain paper. If you look at this thread that I did on my Little Joe build: Little Joe Build, I show that I clear coated all the parts before cutting and edge prepping. Also I show how to remove the clear coat after the part is cut from any tabs that got coated to allow for gluing. Also if you check out my current build: Free Model #3 Hubble Sapce Telescope Build, and go to where I do the mirror, I show a technique on how to make the clear coat smoother.

07-02-2008, 07:50 AM	#34 (permalink)
CardStalker Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: PA, USA Posts: 475	Hello oraclehara, welcome aboard. The wavy surface is from ther clear coat. If you apply it lightly many times it will not be as wavy. Yes you can sand it, but let it dry for at least a day. You will have to reapply the clear coat, but it will be smoother.

07-02-2008, 08:46 PM	#37 (permalink)
oraclehara Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 5	I went to the art shop yesterday to get the Krylon Triple Thick Crystal Clear Glaze and Matte Finish. But they ran out of stocks with the Matte Finish and so i got the Low Odor Clear Coatings (Matte) instead. I just found out that this Low Odor Clear Coatings is of latex enamel. Can i use this for my paper craft? Thanks

07-02-2008, 09:06 PM	#38 (permalink)
CardStalker Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: PA, USA Posts: 475	I would think that it should be ok, but you might try it on some plane paper first, and then on something printed. Latex might be a bit more flexable. Let us know how you make out.

07-02-2008, 10:38 PM	#39 (permalink)
oraclehara Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 5	I was thinking if the latex enamel can't be used, i'll just go exchange for another type. Anybody have experience in this?