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#16 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: NorCal, USA
Posts: 239
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I just wanted to echo what the others have said here about making sure you set the laser printer to heavy paper or cardstock in the print setup. On the HP 4550 that I've used, the pure red toner areas would flake off very easily until I started using the proper paper settings. I've used mostly 110lb [199g/m2] in that printer, which is the thickest paper I use, and it has worked well.
Sometimes I'll coat the prints with clear spray, but it's really not necessary in most cases. The Yamaha motorcycles, for example, came out well with no clear coat. Roger
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WIP: Yamaha YZ450FM |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 1,324
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Hi all,
I haven´t really tried so many laser-printed builds yet but I have a U-Don Lunar Module going, where I do´nt experience the flaking problem yet. I have another model, though, which is laser-printed on Canford silver paper. I haven´t tried folding or scoring that one yet but I will now, to check whether it cracks or flakes. Lately, I have come to do much more backside scoring. If the card or paper is not too thick, this leaves a much nicer fold, which doesn´t crack up so much and leaves the white line that have to be colored. Best, Bengt |
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