Just a question on black outlines... - Page 3

Gainer · 12-16-2007, 10:58 PM

For me, depends on how im displaying. If it is a NICE disply piece NO lines please.

If just a quik project for fun, doesn't make a difference really. Also depends if im at home(using x-acto blades) or on the go(using a pair of scissors)
Just an opinion

**Elliott** · 02-02-2008, 04:19 PM

With less than perfect older eyes I need some contrast. However the solid black on many models is overdone even to my eyes. I like the idea of the gray shading.

blueeyedbear · 02-11-2008, 03:39 PM

About black outlines: try both cutting with the line on the part and cutting the line off of the part. Which fits best? Go that way! An alternative is to cut on the middle of the line. Fit of the parts is more important than anything else.

About score and fold lines: on the part, ONLY if the line is a part of the model's detail. And BIG and BOLD pointer marks outside the part.

And for eyes as old as mine(76 years of use in April): get an OptiVisor (check the MicroMark catalog and web site, as well jewelry and beading websites. Some hobby and craft shops carry them). You can get several different lenses, depending on how much magnification you want/need. A light on the OptiVisor is nice --- I have a CHEAP head lamp mounted on mine. [OptiVisor brand magnifiers have GOOD lenses, much better than similar and cheaper ones] I also Googled for reading glasses (which I HAVE TO use to see closer up than about 15 feet!) and found a source for "4's" (very hard to find stronger than "3's").

Bob

keith · 05-11-2008, 06:07 PM

For white models, black outlines are essential

If you print reversed you can turn the part inside4 out!!!!

For models with lots of textures, i leave them out. Unless the texture is too light in which case a stand-off line 1 or 2 pixels away from the edge is used. Quite easy with modern software. And cut inside the line without leaving any line showing.

With modern printers it should be posible to print the cutting lines on the reverse of the sheet, though i haven't testing it yet with my small parts.

View Poll Results: Dark outlines on parts?
Great idea! It always helps making a clean and accurate cut. It's definitely a must.	30	38.96%
Do you have those lines on the real thing? If not then I don't want that on my model please.	20	25.97%
Fine with either, don't mind and don't care.	19	24.68%
Never gave a thought about that...	8	10.39%
Voters: 77. You may not vote on this poll

12-16-2007, 10:58 PM	#31 (permalink)
Gainer Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 67	For me, depends on how im displaying. If it is a NICE disply piece NO lines please. If just a quik project for fun, doesn't make a difference really. Also depends if im at home(using x-acto blades) or on the go(using a pair of scissors) Just an opinion __________________ Some models were just not meant to be...

02-02-2008, 04:19 PM	#32 (permalink)
Elliott Card Models Moderator Card Models Moderator Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 526	With less than perfect older eyes I need some contrast. However the solid black on many models is overdone even to my eyes. I like the idea of the gray shading. __________________ Elliott Semi-senior membah Redneck Paper Modelahs

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02-11-2008, 03:39 PM	#33 (permalink)
blueeyedbear Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Marion County, Texas Posts: 119	About black outlines: try both cutting with the line on the part and cutting the line off of the part. Which fits best? Go that way! An alternative is to cut on the middle of the line. Fit of the parts is more important than anything else. About score and fold lines: on the part, ONLY if the line is a part of the model's detail. And BIG and BOLD pointer marks outside the part. And for eyes as old as mine(76 years of use in April): get an OptiVisor (check the MicroMark catalog and web site, as well jewelry and beading websites. Some hobby and craft shops carry them). You can get several different lenses, depending on how much magnification you want/need. A light on the OptiVisor is nice --- I have a CHEAP head lamp mounted on mine. [OptiVisor brand magnifiers have GOOD lenses, much better than similar and cheaper ones] I also Googled for reading glasses (which I HAVE TO use to see closer up than about 15 feet!) and found a source for "4's" (very hard to find stronger than "3's"). Bob

05-11-2008, 06:07 PM	#34 (permalink)
keith Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 146	For white models, black outlines are essential If you print reversed you can turn the part inside4 out!!!! For models with lots of textures, i leave them out. Unless the texture is too light in which case a stand-off line 1 or 2 pixels away from the edge is used. Quite easy with modern software. And cut inside the line without leaving any line showing. With modern printers it should be posible to print the cutting lines on the reverse of the sheet, though i haven't testing it yet with my small parts.