Why Coat Your Paper with Glue?

[bclemens]

Hello,
I came across what I believe was a Polish card modeling forum the other night and saw something that puzzled me.

Under what I think was a "Tips and Techniques" category someone had posted text and pictures that looked like the author was applying a thin coating of white glue on all the papers of his model with a sponge before beginning assembly.

I tried to find an on-line translator but nothing worked well enough to make sense of it.

Is this a technique anyone here is familiar with? Do you know what it was supposed to accomplish?

Sorry I didn't bookmark the forum when I saw it...now I can't find it.
Thanks,
Bruce

[mpakier]

This is to make the paper stronger. Some kits can have 10, 20 or more years.
It is also good for new kits. I'm not using it for the whole kit but for some parts i do.

[jaffro]

I have a bottle of revell pl#stic cement with a thin wire tube applicator, I like to use it to soak into parts that I'm going to sand and paint to stop the sanded edges falling to pieces. Especially handy when sanding laminated parts.

I've been thinking lately I'd like to coat the whole model in something the same way, prior to painting it. I'm building a ship in plain white paper with the intention of painting it later, or as I go. The outside will be painted, but I'm thinking of coating the inside with something as well, most likely an acid free matte protective spray for paper.

I've often heard of people saying that large applications of white glue can be prone to severe warping which is why I've never bothered experimenting with it myself.

[bclemens]

Makes me wonder if a good soaking in thinned lacquer or spar varnish would be beneficial to the entire model before starting assembly.

[Elliott]

(Not intended to be a hijack) From a suggestion here I have been experimenting with using hairspray to seal in colors and stiffen things up before I score and cut. Currently using 67 lb cardstock which wilts and curls almost as soon as the stuff touches it, Despite weighting it down when mostly dry, it's virtually impossible to flatten out again.

What to do? Apply less liberally but more coats? Weigh down longer, as in days, not hours?

[Gil]

Many long time paper modelers use thinned nitrate dope to preserve the paper before assembly. It does not alter the color nor will it interfere with the cements used in assembly. Nitrate dope is also called instrument lacquer. It will not yellow with age nor will it cause the curling as will acrylic lacquers. Additional benefits are easy cleanup of glue smears and it also stiffens the paper enough that it sands nicely. A quart can will last through many models.

+Gil

P.S. Thinned lacquer will work but it's not as highly recommended as the nitrate solution as it will affect the papers translucency and offsets color. Smearing a model with white glue is not recommended.

[Darwin]

Back in the 60s there was a lot of experimentation using corregated cardboard instead of balsa for gas-powered model airplanes. One of the techniques used was to paint the cardboard with polyurethane before building in order to give it strength, make it "crisper" for cutting with an exacto knife, and to help gas-proof it. Has anyone tried using it on cardstock?

[BARX2]

I always spray my printed sheets with Krylon acrylic clear spray paint to seal the ink. Works great and makes them almost waterproof (glue proof). It doesn't change the color of the model unless you really overdo it. I use about three thin coats.

[Lex]

May I ask where can you get these spray coats (in UK)? That might just cure the flaking problem of laser prints...

[jagolden]

Originally Posted by jaffro

...I've often heard of people saying that large applications of white glue can be prone to severe warping which is why I've never bothered experimenting with it myself.

I've done this on small parts as I work on them, but ultimately I use a craft acrylic clear-coat, brushed on.

One big problem, I think, with using white glue for a general coat is the glue is water soluble, as well a soluble by more white glue, so I'm not confident of it's stability when building or over time.

I've read many are using Future acrylic floor finish with very happy results. I have not tried this myself.

[josve]

I often use a mix of dope and humbrol varnish to soak former parts to get them stiffer and not delaminating when sanding and shaping.
I have also used a mix of white spirit and flytying varnish with the almost same result.
The main goal is to get the fluid to really get into the cardboard and make it stronger.

Putting things on printed sheets.....I have not done that.

[Billy Leliveld]

Originally Posted by Lex

May I ask where can you get these spray coats (in UK)? That might just cure the flaking problem of laser prints...

There must be an art-surplies store, even in Oxford ...
Cheers, Billy

[RINGMASTER]

I give my models a dusting of krylon right after printing to protect them from damage. Then I brush on two coats of minwax wood hardener. It gives the paper body and makes for much cleaner cut. It also cuts down on the number of coats of gloss it will need.

[bclemens]

Great ideas- all. I've used the Krylon too. I like the results. I'll have to try the wood hardener. that sounds interesting.

[Beachead]

Well. I must be a freshman still in the art of paper works. I haven't done too many yet, six or seven, with two ships on the building ways. I've not sprayed a one.

How necassary is it to put a coat on them? Signed,

Amature