Sikorsky H-34 build

[uglyguy9]

hi all,
thought i would post my h-34 build....i started taking pics a bit late but theres still a bit to go....

[uglyguy9]

more pics....
and big thanks to Dragos for helping me identify this when i originally posted

[cygielski]

Can you post something about the kit? Who published it and how, etc.?

[tikitiki_m]

You could see the kit in this link.
ML Paper Models: Home Page
Airplane Paper Models: ModelArt 1/32 Kits Catalog

[ml5716111]

Originally Posted by cygielski

Can you post something about the kit? Who published it and how, etc.?

And where did you buy it?

[sakrison]

A few years ago, I designed some medical cases for the Medevac H-34 and wrote up some notes about building the kit. The medical cases are attached.
This is what I wrote:

Notes on building the ModelArt (E. Zarkov) Paper Model Kits:
Sikorsky Medevac CH-34C & Marine UH-34W Choctaw Helicopters

So far, I have built the Medevac version but I'm sure this applies to both.
Printing the Kits
Zarkov's models are designed in 1/32 scale for A4 paper stock, which is slightly larger than Letter size. I print them on Letter size stock. On the Adobe Print screens:
• Set the paper size to A4.
• Set printing for "Maximum Printable Area."
• Set for "Shrink to fit" and "Autorotate."
On my printer (Epson Stylus Color 880 inkjet), that gives me printouts at a consistent scale of about 1/34.5 (instead of 1/32). The difference is negligible when displayed with other 1/32 or 1/33 models and the scale works well with 1/35 figures, details, & dioramas.

Assembly
The instructions call for you to build the frame and interior, then skin it, beginning with parts 28-28c which make up the main fuselage. Then, you're told to add parts 29, 30, and 31, building up the engine cowl over the frames. (See Instruction Drawings, page 4.)

I think there’s an easier way. Here’s how I did it:

1. I built the framework and interior per instructions (Drawings, pages 1-3), then set them aside. At this point, you can add the extra medical cases I created [Medic Boxes.pdf]. If you're building the Marine version, GPM has some accessory barrels, jerry cans, and ammunition boxes in 1/33 scale. You can download them free at www.gpm.pl; click on Download.

2. I built up the fuselage skin as a unit--parts 28 through 31. Starting with part 28 (the main cabin skin), I rolled the corners of 28 but left the joint at the top of 28 open and added 29, 31, and finally 30. That allowed me to work with the skin apart from the frame, and to get my fingers inside the cowling while I built it and mated it cleanly and accurately to rest of the fuselage.

3. Parts 28d are optional--3 recessed fuel inlets. I installed two of them, omitting the middle one since the open side door would cover it. They did not interfere with the next step.

4. With the fuselage skin (Pt. 28-29) and cowling (30-31) assembled, I carefully spread the sides of pt 28 and slid the skin onto the assembled skeleton. I had to do some trimming and light sanding on the cowling skeleton (parts 6, 7, and 9a-9f), but very little on part 9 or on the rest of the frame.

Take your time here--trim, check fit, trim, check fit, etc. (I spent the better part of an hour on this one step.) Trim as little as possible from part 9--the instrument panel. With careful fitting of the cowl around the nose, part 30 should fit nicely and tightly over the edge of part 9. When you reach that point, check the fit where the two sides of part 28 join at the top of the cabin. With a little sanding on the frame, it should be a perfect fit. (I use cheap wooden fingernail files from the drugstore).

When everything looked right, I slipped the skin back off the frame, applied glue lightly to the main frames (parts 1-7, 10, and 11, and slid the skin back on. I didn't put any glue on parts 9-9f, since the cowl holds its shape by itself and the dry fit between part 30 and part 9 was nice and snug. With the glue still wet, I made sure two halves of 28 fit well, then glued that joint, wrapped the whole thing in rubber bands, and let it dry overnight.

5. I mounted the sliding door partially open so the starboard side cabin window would be visible. To finish the inside of the main door, I printed an extra copy of the interior walls (CO1I.pdf) on plain paper (not cardstock), and cut it to fit the door. The inside of the door is only visible through the port side windows, so you don't need much detail here—just the right color and contrast. I used a pencil to crosshatch the inside surface, to resemble the quilted insulation blanket used in the cabin.

For the rest of the assembly, follow Zarkov's instructions as written. The rotor assembly is surprisingly easy to build, for all its detail. It just takes lots of time because there are about 4 million pieces. The results are fantastic and quite sturdy.

The main rotor is built up in layers. Remember to drill the center hole as you add each layer. I forgot to do that and by the time I was done, the 3/4-inch tall rotor head was too thick to drill accurately. I added thin tabs at the base of the rotor to provide a friction-fit in the housing that rotor sits in. It looks fine, but it doesn't spin.

I used a thin basswood strip as a spar for each rotor blade—main and tail. It’s HO-scale lumber, 2x6 or 2x8, from the hobby shop. Otherwise, the rotors will probably droop, eventually.

Overall, this is one of the best-designed and most enjoyable models I've built. I have the Marine Cargo version (same kit--different paint job) and I'm looking forward to building that and displaying them together. I want to find a 1/35 American field gun to hang underneath the Marine Choctaw, and I may use 1/35 scale figures for pilot and crew on that one. As I mentioned, the scale of my Choctaw is about 1/34.5 instead of the designer's 1/32.

Enjoy the kit!
--David Sakrison
sakrison@charter.net

26 Dec 03

[uglyguy9]

hi all
model can be found here ML Paper Models: Home Page 14 bucks very well priced!!
comes in 2 variants......army green and white
i got it on pdf (they email you a download link after purchase) but i think you can order it on cd too

[uglyguy9]

+more pics.....those litters were pesky.....still a "canopy newb"

[uglyguy9]

this is really well designed david....i built it your way as well with a few little mods. is there another build thread for this? (i couldnt find one) but as you said.....nice easy build just a LOT of parts.instructions (for most) is very clear.
i was reading that a lot of the pilots had the large side windows removed....and i have seen this in some pics so i left them out

cheers
phil

[modelperry]

Nice build so far. Makes me want to try a helicopter of some sort.

Regards,

Greg

[sakrison]

Originally Posted by modelperry

Nice build so far. Makes me want to try a helicopter of some sort.

Regards,

Greg

Greg,
This kit would be an excellent choice. It was my first helicopter and the finished kit looks great--more to Dr. Zarkov's credit than mine.

The kit is available in Medevac, US Marine, or Israeli Air Force colors. I chose the Medevac because the white livery really stands out. (And I spent two years as an ambulance crew chief.) I'm planning to build the Marine version for a friend who flew one.

No worries,
--David

[loadmat]

David & Phil,
How do you install the windows? I am building the F.G. H-19, H-5, & HUP-2 back-dated to the HUP-1 and decided to scratch-biuld interiors. I used clear doc. protectors from Walmart, and installed them with double-side adhesive tape. I was wondering if the sky-lights were colored with Tamiya transparent green or did you find some tranparent green sheets? I found that Elmers white glue wouldn't do the job. Is there a better way to do this?
Thanks
Greg

[Cybermac]

Nice model of classic beauty!

[uglyguy9]

hi guys
sorry its been a while but here is the finished 'copter
i really enjoyed building this

[uglyguy9]

Originally Posted by loadmat

David & Phil,
How do you install the windows? I am building the F.G. H-19, H-5, & HUP-2 back-dated to the HUP-1 and decided to scratch-biuld interiors. I used clear doc. protectors from Walmart, and installed them with double-side adhesive tape. I was wondering if the sky-lights were colored with Tamiya transparent green or did you find some tranparent green sheets? I found that Elmers white glue wouldn't do the job. Is there a better way to do this?
Thanks
Greg

i use "white glue" or pva (same)
its water based so i usually put a few drops on a plate and let it go "sticky" before i apply it to windows
i searched around for the right type of clear plastic......the green is just a coloured transperancy......the clear i used a fairly thick plastic to try and give it a "crazed" effect.
if your glue doesnt hold then just use a small amount of super-glue....test it on the plastic first
hope this helps....few more pics
phil