Old-Timer Needs an Opinion...

[doctorwayne]

We spiked down the track on the WS foam atop blue styrofoam, and the track will stay in place, although it's easy to lift it, without tools. I assume that ballasting with white glue would make the whole thing more permanent, especially laterally.
On my own layout, I put the cork down using yellow carpenters glue, then tack it in place with 2 1/2" nails every few inches (I had about 2/3 of a 50 lb. box of 'em leftover from building my house) - I just tap them in far enough to grab the subroadbed, then pull them out by hand the next day. A quick pass with some #36 sandpaper on a block of wood evens out any irregularities, and you can taper a 3' section from full height down to nothing at the opposite end, using the same method, in only 4 or 5 minutes. I used Atlas track and their track nails to secure the track, both on the cork and directly on the plywood subroadbed - they say that you can remove the track nails after ballasting, but I didn't bother.
With the WS foam roadbed atop styrofoam, it's pretty much impossible to drive the track nails too tight, as the foam doesn't grip them at all - the nail gets pulled back up as the bent tie flexes back to its normal shape. Cork holds the nails a bit better, and if the track nail goes into the wooden subroadbed, you have to be careful to not drive it too far, as it will deform the tie (pulling the rails out-of-gauge) and not return as the wood will grip the nail firmly.
We'll probably be doing some ballasting on the WS roadbed sometime this year, so we'll see if it's as easy as on cork and if it holds everything in place as well, too.
Allan, I'd like to see your pictures: you can create an album here in the Gallery or on photobucket, then post your pictures from either place right to this Thread.

Wayne

[abutt]

OK posted four pics from the last layout. We moved and the layout was sold in five, 10' sections to RR antique/ice cream shop in Windsor, CT. New one in the works, as you know. Finally made up my mind (with your's and other's help..) new layout will be CORK roadbed on ply. The CNE rr as shown was just that; cork on ply. It worked fine. Why change?
Allan

[abutt]

Wayne...I posted pics to the Gallery, which I can't seem to get back to. Couldn't figure how to post pics to this particular thread. Help!
Allan

[ezdays]

Originally Posted by abutt

Wayne...I posted pics to the Gallery, which I can't seem to get back to. Couldn't figure how to post pics to this particular thread. Help!
Allan

Go to your images in the Gallery, then right click on the image you want to show here. Dependent on your browser, but you should have something like "copy image location" select and left click on that. What that does is store a link to your image on your clipboard. Start a new post, and left click on the picture "Inset image" icon in the composition window. A small window will come up, right click on the window and then select "paste" from the list, or do a "ctrl-V" to paste the link in the window. Click on "OK" and proceed. Your image should be embedded in your post like this:

[doctorwayne]

For me, I just click on the thumbnail, then "Copy" the BB code line (img). Then go to your "Reply to Thread" window and "Paste" the code where you want it. It will appear as a line of code in the composition window, but show as a picture as soon as you "Post".

Wayne

[Walt Gee]

Hi! I'm new to these forums, but I thought that I would mention that our new club HO layout (an M-shape about 35' wide with right, middle and left legs of 15', 20' & 25' respectively) uses the regular stringers, cookie cutter 1/4 plywood sub-roadbed with 1/2" blue foam, and cork roadbed all of which is glued in place. I have been totally amazed at how fast the track laying and scenicking has progressed. At first it seemed slow and clunky, but our master builder Tom has managed to lay about 200' of track(Atlas code 83 flextrack) and about 20-30 turnouts(Shinohara #5's which have to be shimmed up about .020") over standard benchwork and something like 70' of 30" wide hardshell terrain, wiring each module for DCC as we go and teach numerous volunteers, in about 32 work sessions of 1 1/2 - 2hrs.

Note: While trying to reach into a deep scenery-only corner to plant some trees, I had to steady myself by leaning on the mainline and did so with no ill effects. I suspect that it will also be super quiet, although we have yet to run locomotives on it. I think I am going to use the same system for my own layout that is in the planning stage. (HO 11' X 33" shelf layout) [ Post WW I Tuckerton Rail Road is a shortline connecting to the Pennsy and CNJ with Pennsy track rights to Beach Haven, NJ] At the present time I am doing design work on a fully working HO scale model of Barnegat Light as an focal point for the layout.

[doctorwayne]

Hi Walt, and to the Gauge.
For anyone else who, like me, wonders what Barnegat Light is, here's a bit of background. That's one tall lighthouse!

Wayne

[wjstix]

Keep in mind if you use Woodland Scenic foam risers under the roadbed and track that you won't need to "cookie cutter" anything. You use the risers to raise your trackage above the table top, so the scenery can now slope down from track if you wish.

[ocalicreek]

From the horse's mouth...

The Amazing Strength of Homasote®

Granted, not much is mentioned about warpage or swelling and it was mounted vertically in whole sheets. Cutting it into strips may weaken it but if it's laminated to a plywood that shouldn't matter.

I've heard it's the PLYWOOD that warps or swells long before the homasote will. Then I've heard it's the framing (a better argument for L Girder IMO...but I still think box framing is better) and the quality of lumber.

I've yet to see anybody provide definitive EVIDENCE beyond word of mouth, usually second-hand info at that, which proves beyond a shadow of a doubt that homasote warps and swells.

Tracking down homasote in the SW was tough and I've never used it so I can't speak from any experience here. SO if anyone else can - first hand, not 'some guy I knew had a cousin who said it swelled up' - please do.

Okay...down off the soapbox. Hope you get those pics working.

Galen

[Russ Bellinis]

I've prepared some homosote for my home layout when I get the room available to build it. It is so heavy; I would never use it for a module. It wasn't difficult to laminate it to plywood. I just put down yellow carpenter's glue to both the homosote and the plywood, and then screwed it down with drywall screws. I ran the screw heads below surface and covered them up with spackle. I don't know that Southern California is a good place to find out any sort of definitive answer as to what warps or doesn't warp or swell. The average humidity in this area, even near the beach, is probably no more than 20%, except on the days it rains, which here in Los Angeles area averages 13 inches per year.

[logicman]

Hi, all.

Alan:

I was going to comment about using wbp/exterior grade ply, but then I saw this:
Superintendent
Central New England RR
Baxterville Timber Company Division
and the words "granny" and "eggs" popped into my mind.

Wayne: here's another old-timer seeking an opinion.
AMI instant roadbed: have you, or anyone here, any experience with this?
I'm thinking of giving it a try.

[doctorwayne]

I've never used the AMI roadbed, only cork or plywood, so I can't comment on its use.

Wayne

[RonP]

Originally Posted by abutt

You guys...Wayne, I wouldn't drop the Homasote, I like the sound deadening quality it has. I definitely wouldn't go just on plywood for the track. Even cork roadbed on ply is noisy. I think I can get away with 1/4 ply. I wonder if running 1 x 2 stringers between the existing 1 x 4 stringers at 90 degrees would prevent sagging? I'm also trying to avoid "cookie-cutting" shapes in two materials.

That is exactly what I would suggest, but I aint old or that experienced with railroading. I am a Carpenter though so take it for what its worth.

[Russ Bellinis]

Originally Posted by logicman

Hi, all.

Alan:

I was going to comment about using wbp/exterior grade ply, but then I saw this:
Superintendent
Central New England RR
Baxterville Timber Company Division
and the words "granny" and "eggs" popped into my mind.

Wayne: here's another old-timer seeking an opinion.
AMI instant roadbed: have you, or anyone here, any experience with this?
I'm thinking of giving it a try.

I've never heard anything good about using the Ami instant roadbed as roadbed. It does make great asphalt roads, however.

[lester perry]

Well I guess I am the ultimate cheap. I use 1/4 inch luan with the foam that is used under walls when framing. I put the ridge side down. when it is ballasted it looks great and it is quiet. The last time I bought it the foam was around $6.00 for a 50 foot roll of 6" wide. I stapled it down layed the track and cut away the excess
Les