Old-Timer Needs an Opinion...

[abutt]

I have a new layout open-frame base awaiting a table top. I had planned to use 1/4" plywood and Homasote. I'm now wondering if I can get away with just the screwed and glued Homasote? None of the framing is more than 12" apart. This would save me a lot of labor (and $s) and might just be strong enough. This will be a short-line. No fancy ballasting, just track laid right down on the Homasote. Would like opinions from some fellow oldies that have made most of the mistakes in this hobby already.

Allan

[FiatFan]

I wouldn't recommend it. The Homasote can sag even with such short spans. Given the short spans, the 1/4 plywood should provide adequate support for the Homasote.

Tom

[Trainiac77]

I agree with FiatFan. Homasote can soak up moisture in the air and sag terribly, this comes from experience! Why no go with 5/8" Plywood only if you want to save money? (Not that I really recommend just plywood alone.)

[Russ Bellinis]

I would use the plywood under the homasote. Out here in Cali, the thinnest plywood stocked by the home centers is 3/8. I like luan door skin type plywood for thin stuff. It is available in either 4 x 8 sheets or door sized sheets for reskinning hollow core doors.

[doctorwayne]

I agree: the plywood is necessary. You could skip the Homasote if you want to save money, and lay the track right on the plywood. Don't waste your money on veneered finishes either - 3/8" sheathing plywood is plenty strong and its spruce composition is easy to drive track spikes into, using pliers. That's what I plan to use for the second level of my layout.

Wayne

[yellowlynn]

I have used Homasote in the past and it works real good. For plywood under it, just use the cheapest, raunchiest you can get. Any ply will work, and the Homasote covers the ply. Then paint the Homasote real good to seal it enough that moisture from scenery won't swell it. It should give you no problems, especially with bracing at 12".

Lynn

[abutt]

You guys...Wayne, I wouldn't drop the Homasote, I like the sound deadening quality it has. I definitely wouldn't go just on plywood for the track. Even cork roadbed on ply is noisy. I think I can get away with 1/4 ply. I wonder if running 1 x 2 stringers between the existing 1 x 4 stringers at 90 degrees would prevent sagging? I'm also trying to avoid "cookie-cutting" shapes in two materials.

[doctorwayne]

Originally Posted by abutt

You guys...Wayne, I wouldn't drop the Homasote, I like the sound deadening quality it has. I definitely wouldn't go just on plywood for the track. Even cork roadbed on ply is noisy. I think I can get away with 1/4 ply. I wonder if running 1 x 2 stringers between the existing 1 x 4 stringers at 90 degrees would prevent sagging? I'm also trying to avoid "cookie-cutting" shapes in two materials.

I didn't mean that you should drop the Homasote, only that if you could only afford one or the other, go with the plywood.
I have track both on bare plywood, and on cork atop plywood, and find neither particularly noisy, although all of the track is ballasted.

Wayne

[abutt]

Remember Truscale wooden roadbed? My third, and largest layout was entirely Truscale stained road bed on Homasote. It was so quiet you could hear the screws drop out of my brass Seirra's drivers. Those were the days. It's not a matter of cost. Having some old-age pulminary problems, and was trying to get out of the labor. But. alas, seems not to be. I value all your opinions and shall go the long way.

[sgtcarl]

If I may, a reminder that if you saw Homasote, it creates a very fine dust. So if you use it, be sure to wear one of the blue particle masks. They cost more, but they keep out the finest particles. This info from the company that invented the stuff.

[RonP]

Originally Posted by doctorwayne

That's what I plan to use for the second level of my layout.
Wayne

Oh geez I can't wait to see this...

[abutt]

I know, and plan to the cutting outside, and then vacuum the pieces before I bring them in...all this while wearing a mask! And thanks for the alert. I hope a lot of the new kids read this and act accordingly. Like spray painting and airbrushing. All this from a guy who's having pulminary problems right now at age 78, possibly going back to early, careless days.

[abutt]

I've made my decision. No Homasote. I think my using it would be asking for health trouble with my breathing, which I've got enough already. I'm going back to what the last layout was; cork roadbed on plywood, although this time I'll look at Woodland Scenics new roadbed, which I think is kind of a hard foam. Anybody have any experience with it? I trust Woodland, I've used many of their products for years.
Allan

[doctorwayne]

A friend of mine has used the WS foam, but it's atop extruded styrofoam - not a very solid base if you use nails to hold your track in place. Ballasting may improve the situation, but I didn't enjoy working with it. It may work better using latex caulk to affix the track, but my preference would still be for the cork, as it's easy to sand out any high spots and also easy when you need to to bring the track level down, such as at sidings. We found this out when attempting to lay track to a turntable that was already installed, with the top of the pit flush with the plywood which formed the top of that part of the layout. Our solution was to glue down a length of cork, then taper it down by sanding as it neared the turntable. The foam roadbed is very soft, almost like the stuff that they pack around new locos, so any height adjustments or bumps need to be removed before the roadbed is put down. Personally, I prefer the solid construction of cork glued on wood, with the track spiked in place. Ballasting makes the whole works even more solid.

Wayne

[abutt]

Wayne...Like your reasoning about cork. I've used it on three layouts without problems. I do like to spike down my track and that's the one thing about using the new stuff that's bothering me. My hobby dealer has done three layouts using Woodland's own glue and likes it, I think I'll do a test stretch of track with the foam stuff and see how I feel. I value your opinion. I've seen your pictures and know you know what it's all about. I'd show you mine but the Gauge lost them a year ago. I still have originals if you're interested, and can email them direct if you care to send me an email for address.

Allan