[Free Model #3] Corolla WRC 1998 New Zealand

[logicman]

I need to recharge my camera batteries - and my own!

In the last photo, you can just about see how the large tabs distort the paper. It looks even worse on the other side!

You can also see what looks like stitches, or sutures, on the other V-slit.
That's the Viking method.

The Viking built their long ships in such a way that the flat, two-dimensional planks would form the beautiful ships that you see in paintings, models and museums. Of course, i doubt that their enemies would have called these longships 'beautiful'!

The planks had curved edges, and were pulled into shape with, presumably, ropes. History records that the Vikings, frustrated by a complete lack of cyanoacrylate at their local shops, used copper wire to quite simply stitch the planks together. This method brings the curved edges together in stages, thus avoiding flat-spots.

[Mark Crowel]

This is educational. I have not yet conquered the compound curve, and yours is a method I should try.

I've tried to come close to making compound curves on the hood/bonnet of this 1950 Studebaker.

[logicman]

Nice one, Mark!

Those curves really add something to the '50s look.


A tip for car modellers:
Shiny side up. Greasy side down!

[Mark Crowel]

Thanks. It was one of the most challenging (i.e., aggravating) models I've built.

[logicman]

It's been way too long since I updated - you'll soon see why.

OK, the Viking method:

Draw the edges together a little at a time, using the thin strip as 'stitches'.

When all stitches have been made, lay a thin strip along the join line to strengthen it. Some modellers just use glue to 'backfill' a join - I prefer to
give the glue something to bond to.

In this photo, I have used red-printed strips for clarity.
Note how the square tabs distort the thin paper, but the stiches curl it.

[logicman]

Now I show the effect of stitches on the actual cardstock.

I use strips longer than needed and cut off the excess after
the glue has dried. It's easier to handle longer strips -
they are so narrow that handling very short pieces is a problem.

[logicman]

Now to the reason for my slowness.

I recently moved house, and the whole place was cluttered.
I had to build shelves for storage and put stuff out of the way.

I also built this workbench, with a shelf at back.

At last! I can do some modelling!

[Mark Crowel]

I'll have to try this stitch method the next time I attempt a compound curve. It's probably the best way for my favorite material, chipboard. Stock that heavy would need glued-on stitches to hold the join together.

[logicman]

Mark, I'll get back to you about the chipboard - in the UK that's what we call
a sort of 're-constituted' wood made out of wood chips. That stuff requires
a whole different method. Or do you mean a very heavy cardstock type?

Latest update:

This model is modular. The main assemblies are hood area, sides, back, roof
chassis and wheels. The chassis is very basic, and not intended for show.
It's there to give stiffness and strength.

Because the assemblies are modular, it's possible to get on with one assembly
whilst the glue on another is drying.

Here, I show the wheels being made. A set of treads is cut out and rolled.
Remember, I printed 3 sets of everything. This first set of treads is
trimmed a little under-size. It will be used to shape and stiffen the wheels.

The treads were first rolled on a jiffy-bag, then glued.
I used hair-grips to hold the glued overlaps.

[logicman]

The outer wheel disks were cut out roughly, punched, and mounted
with some thick scrap card onto a small nut and bolt.
You can see the assembly in the last photo, above.
(You get better results if you can find two metal washers of
exactly the right size. I couldn't, this time.)

This was spun at the lowest speed in a Dremel type hand power tool.
The card disks were very lightly sanded to a more circular shape.
The thick card scrap keeps the sandpaper from tearing into the thin disks
and ruining them.

If you don't have a power tool, try to mount the disks in a nut and bolt,
and sand lightly by hand.

Alternatively, use a coin, washer or similar disk to cut around on the
work surface.

These two photos show the disks mounted in the power tool,
and the finished disks.


More later.

[Mark Crowel]

Chipboard is a lightweight cardboard. It's about 1/32" thick, grayish or tan colored, and it's most often found here as backing for writing tablets. It holds curves well, and can be built into very sturdy models.

Usually, only people with a background in the paper industry know it by this name. Here, as in the UK, many people think chipboard is the wood product you described, which we also call particleboard.

BTW, oddly enough, Americans refer to hair clips as "bobby pins". That tidbit probably belongs in your "My Word" thread.

Are the wheels intended to roll freely on this Toyota?

[logicman]

Are the wheels intended to roll freely on this Toyota?

No, Mark.

The wheels are designed to be bonded to the chassis.
Some of the wheel parts are being glued, so whilst they dry,
I'll show some build pictures of the hood/front bumper build.

For the front bumper, there are 3 areas with tabs.
I've kept only one lot, since they won't show a folded edge
once the part is built.

The first picture shows the knife pointing to one part
where the row of tabs was cut off.

The second photo shows a strip of paper which I'll explain next.

[logicman]

The bumper folds up with one part at 90 deg to the other,
producing a curved bumper.

It can be hard work folding card tabs, so I just cut them off.

Now. Take a strip of ordinary thin paper. Fold it in half.
Use a sharp cutting knife to slice through both layers,
leaving a small uncut part at the fold.

You will notice that as you cut, the paper starts to curl.
That's good, that's what's needed.

For this model, I left a short central part uncut, for the
flat area by the number-plate. This flat area was glued on first,
with the cut-out part folded squarely up.

[logicman]

Sorry for the poor image quality.
I intend to read my camera's manual some day soon.

Once the central part had dried, I started to glue the 'shredded'
part of the paper strip to the flat part of the bumper.

I used modelling pins to pull the card around, so as to
guide the paper tabs into shape. Mostly, the pins go
into the cork tile, but some go through bits of card
which will be invisible in the final model.

When the glue dries, I'll apply glue to the paper tabs for
the curved part, then repeat for the other side.

The current work is going to be a core, onto which I will
glue the outer skin. This makes for a much more rigid model,
and allows for mistakes to be made at the inner core stage,
where they will never show.

I'll try to get better focus for my next photos.

Catch you all later.

[logicman]

This next photo shows the paper strip glued to the
entire flat part of the bumper.

The second one shows how I've used pins to curl the front into shape
and hold it firmly while the next lot of glue dries.