Laminating?

[dwesrist]

I've seen the term "laminating" used several times on the forums to reference a specific step. Someone will say "laminate this piece on cereal boxes" or "laminate this onto cardstock" and then proceed on.

Now, I must not be aware of the adjustment in the definition of the term laminate in card modeling, because I always thought of laminating as taking something to a print shop, getting a clear plastic-like coat of protective covering put on it, and then trimming it for display somewhere. Laminating was the big process with complex machines and heat and bunches of other steps.

Obviously (I really, really hope) it must mean something different in card modeling.

Could someone define what you mean by laminating when talking about card modeling?

Thanks,

[logicman]

Lamina = layer or level.

In plywood, each part is 'a laminate'.

To laminate means 'to join thin items together to make a thicker item'
or
'to apply a layer of one thing onto another'

A lamination process can use a mold or press, where it can use hot or cold processes.

In the hobby, if you glue two pieces of card or paper together by their faces, that's laminating!

I hope this helps.

[gcsmith]

Has anyone tried using matte board?

It is approximately 1 mm thick.

[SCEtoAux]

Yep, in paper models "laminate" means to glue the part onto another piece of cardstock or a cereal box or other paper material to increase the thickness. Used mainly for structural parts like internal frame work on ships, aircraft, automobiles, trucks, tanks, etc. to give added support to the outer skin (fuselage, hull, body, etc.). Sometimes the thicker laminated part is needed for movable parts on some models. It provides greater stiffness to the part.

[jagolden]

Originally Posted by gcsmith

Has anyone tried using matte board?

It is approximately 1 mm thick.

Unless it's a super quality matt board, it dreies out quickly, has a great tendancey to warp and it's not laminated very solid so it will delaminate easily. I wouldn't touch it.

Now, a good quality illustration board is a different matter. I use that frequently and like it. It's relatively thick so best for large models. However, it's an additional cost. I actually use the board available from Staples office supply stores.

I have a model started using Strathmore 100% rag illustration board. It's very expensive and it's not created by laminating-it's a single piece. But I will move on to the Staples cheaper stuff as the model progresses because it has proven itself - to me anyway.

[gcsmith]

Thanks for the info.

Jerry Smith

[cdavenport]

As opposed to illustration board, purchase LetraMax 2000 mechanical board, from dickblick.com. It is a tad over 1mm thick. It costs $7 and change plus shipping for a large 30 x 34 inch sheet. If you are close to an art supply store purchase it there and save shipping.

I have been carrying a supply around for over 20 years and all the sheets are dead flat still. I have a CSS Hunley build thread which details its use.

[David H]

I find materials by trial an error.

Use lots of weight to keep the work flat while it dries or use something like 3M Spray mount to join the layers.

D

[bclemens]

gcsmith, I use mat board a lot because we always have lots around from my wife's art framing. It does delaminate easily, but for some uses that can work to your advantage. See
I-16 Rata Cockpit WIP
post # 25.

You can coat the cut edges with CA glue to keep it together also.
I think this thread shows that there are all sorts of options for particular situations. A well built model would, IMO contain many different thicknesses and grades of paper and card for particular situations.

Cheers!
Bruce