model building help

[hickstmj]

Well, I tried some brush painting today with acrylics. The paint was so uneven. I think I may try my airbrush. I have never used before. I did get some nice brushes so I don't think that's the problem. I sure hope practice will make me better.

[logicman]

The old-time painters used brushes with coach paint, a class of enamel.
Before spray painting in its modern form* was invented, the method was to use many thin coats to build up a high gloss final coat.

You might find an antiquarian book on this, but at a price. On the other hand you can look at the link below.

*Spray painting was invented in prehistoric times. It is believed that the technique was to blow colored dust onto a greasy surface, by mouth through a hollow bone.

Vehicle Painting Pointers

[steamhead]

Hi...I've never had a problem with Dull-Cote. I use it straight out of the can.....What I do notice, is that chalks will loose some of their effect when dull-coated. So if you use them, apply them on the heavy side...

Good luck..!!

[Biased turkey]

Originally Posted by hickstmj

Well, I tried some brush painting today with acrylics. The paint was so uneven. I think I may try my airbrush. I have never used before. I did get some nice brushes so I don't think that's the problem. I sure hope practice will make me better.

When using a paint brush I frequently dip the brush in some clear water, it removes any dried paint from the paint brush.
You should have told us that you have an airbrush.
What brand of paint are you using ? If it is acrylic Polly Scale, don't forget to thin it before airbrush painting . 2 parts paint for 1 part rubbing alcohol

If you could post a picture of your uneven paint job it would help.

As you say, practice , practice and ... practice.

Jacques

[shaygetz]

Originally Posted by hickstmj

Does the Krylon clear matte have the same problem with turning milky (with water thinning) as the Dul-Cote?

I've not had that problem with Krylon yet. The cloudiness of Dul Cote comes primarily from humidity so, if you watch that, you should be fine. I use Krylon for economics---I get nearly four times the product for the same price as Dul Cote.

Doc, every time I think I got avarice beat, you post more pics of your layout...sigh.

[Biased turkey]

I used some Dullcote ( sp? ) and didn't have any problem at all ) see the picture )
Some experts even suggest to warm the spraycan in some warm water but imho I consider it to be dangerous.

Jacques

[Glen Haasdyk]

I tend to spray the larger parts and detail paint later with a brush. I do have an airbrush but I don't use it excusivly when I spray.
Wal-mart usually has a good selection of spray-can paints. I stick up on flat black, white, grey primer, and red oxide primer (makes a great brick paint).
I do most of my detail painting with acrylic water based paint from the craft store (it's cheaper)
One thing about brush painting with acrylics. It will seem to go on heavy but since it's water based it will 'shrink' as it dries, revealing the detail as it does.

I too use the Krylon flat clear. It has to be shaken very well. I recently painted an express reefer with the krylon an it turned milky. I think it was partly because I didn't shake it up enough. A second coat turned the milky coat clear again though.

[shaygetz]

My biggest problem is that both Dul Cote and Krylon have a nasty habit of picking and choosing when they want to dry flat. Sometimes I get an annoying sheen that won't matte over, no matter how many coats I use...

[hickstmj]

Thank you for your advice everyone.

I have an airbrush but it is just a cheap one I got 10 or 12 years ago from one of those tool sales that come to town once in a while. I have never tried it & I don't have a paint booth so I was trying not to use it because I don't know how well it (I) will do. I guess it can't be any worse than what I've tried so far. I have mostly acrylic paints so I think I will try them thinned with alcohol. Do I clean the airbrush with alcohol also?

[doctorwayne]

Marcie, if the alcohol will thin the paint, then you can also use it to do the clean-up. I'm not a big fan of acrylics for airbrushing, but that's mainly because I learned on lacquer-based paints, and both types require their own technique. (the "old dog/new tricks business" - )
I have found that lowering the air pressure from what I normally would use does help to prevent clogging of the tip. If you're going to try the airbrush, practise on some cardboard. This will allow you to experiment with the effects of thinning (start with the paint manufacturer's recommendations), how varying air pressure changes the equation, and how distance from the object being painted and the speed of each pass will affect the final results. It'll also let you get comfortable with the "feel" of the whole operation. It's important to start the spray before you get to the object being painted and to end after you've passed it. Keep the airbrush moving, as stopping on the object will cause pooling and runs. Multiple thin coats are preferable to one or two heavy ones - the paint will dry to the touch almost immediately on contact - if you're too far away, it'll dry before contact, leaving a rough surface and weak finish.
Practise lots, but most importantly, have fun!

Wayne

[Russ Bellinis]

Marcie, one thing to remember is that even water based acrylic paints are dangerous to breathe! You mentioned not having a spray booth. In Florida, that probably isn't a problem, but to be safe, do your spraying outside in the open air. You don't want to spray in an enclosed space. It would also be a good idea to go to your local Home Depot, Lowes, or whatever home center you frequent and pick up a good filter mask to protect your lungs from paint fumes.

[ScratchyAngel]

You can actually get good full respirator masks cheap on eBay. I think I paid about $20. You look like a goon from WWI, but they block just about everything. I actually wear it even when spraying water based too. I don't have a spray booth, but I put an second exhaust fan in the downstairs bathroom and it usually clears out the fumes quickly, but I still wear the mask and keep a few doors shut so the pets can't hover by the door.

[MasonJar]

This is a great respirator. I have one, and it works very well. I was afraid of feeling trapped, not getting good air flow, etc, etc. But it is light, fits well (comes in three sizes), and the air flow is great.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,42207,42220

CAN$60, so not as cheap as some, but hey, we're talking about your lungs...!

Andrew

[doctorwayne]

As Andrew notes, the fit of the respirator is as important as the filter cartridges. There should be adjustments for all straps - properly adjusted, a good respirator is comfortable to wear. To test for fit, first adjust the straps, then cover the cartridges with your hands and inhale. You should feel the body of the respirator pull tight against your face - if it doesn't, there is not a good seal between your face and the rubber. If you have a full beard, you may not be able to get a good seal.
For cartridges, use the two-stage type, often called a combination cartridge. Inside is a paper filter element, which removes the particulate matter (paint dust) and an activated charcoal element which removes the harmful vapours. When the paper becomes clogged, you will have difficulty getting enough air through the cartridge, indicating that it's time for fresh ones. If, while painting with lacquer-based paints, you begin to smell the paint, the charcoal element is past its "best-by" date, and the filters should be replaced. The ones that I use are from the Mine Safety Appliances Company, in Pittsburgh, and are approved for use with organic vapours (that includes paint fumes), acid gases, and particulates.

Wayne

[hickstmj]

Thank you one & all. I have not tried the airbrush yet, I am still trying the brush on this model. Second coat was a little better but still not great. I will take pictures.